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Pheasant and Chestnut Crumble

 
Cookery Doctor responds
 
Cookery Doctor, Richard MaggsI am searching for a recipe for pheasant and chestnut crumble by Sue Lawrence published some time ago in the Sunday Times. It was said to be based on an idea from “Entertaining on Ice” by Tessa Hayward but this book is now not available in the UK even second-hand. Can you help?

This is probably the most talked about recipe from Tessa Hayward’s excellent “Entertaining on Ice”. I think it’s the most groundbreaking book on short-term freezing to have been written in the last 20 years, it’s really worth seeking out a second-hand copy or putting in a library request.

I have been unable to track down Sue Lawrence’s Sunday Times variation with chestnuts, but am sure you can incorporate some vacuum packed or frozen ones at the assembly stage before the final baking. Waitrose stock a particularly good frozen whole chestnut that are worth tracking down, I prefer them to the other types when not using fresh.

Don’t be put off by a rather long list of ingredients, it’s actually quite quick to assemble and well worth the effort. If the Sue Lawrence version does materialise – readers please forward it to me if you have it – I will post it on Agalinks with an acknowledgment at a later date and let you know.

Ingredients
(Serves 8)
Juice of an orange
1¾oz (50g) raisins
1¾oz (50g) butter
1 tbsp oil
A brace of pheasants
7oz (200g) lardons, or roughly chopped streaky bacon
2 large onions, peeled and roughly chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
2 sticks celery, strings removed and chopped
3 tbsp brandy
9fl oz (250ml) dry cider
10fl oz (300ml) pheasant or chicken stock
A bouquet garni of parsley stalks, sprigs thyme and bay leaf
2 tbsp cornflour
1 tbsp redcurrant jelly
For the crumble
4½oz (125g) flour
1¾oz (50g) porridge oats
1¾oz (50g) flaked almonds
Zest of an orange
4½oz (125g) butter

Method
Zest and juice the orange. Reserve the zest for the crumble and put the raisins to soak in the juice. Heat the butter and oil in a large casserole or pan and gently sauté the birds, turning from time to time, until they are golden on all sides. Remove and keep them on one side. Fry the bacon until the fat has run then remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Sauté the onions, carrots and celery until the onion is soft and golden then return the pheasants, breast uppermost, and the bacon.

In a small pan warm the brandy, set light to it, pour it over the pheasants and shake the pan until the flames have died down. Add the cider, chicken stock, the raisins and any remaining orange juice and the bouquet garni. Season then bring to the boil.

2, 3 or 4-Oven Aga 
Cover and transfer to the simmering oven for 1¼-1½ hours, until the pheasants are just cooked.

Conventional cookers 
Cover the pan and either put it in the centre of a pre-heated oven set at 160°C (325°F), gas mark 3, or simmer at the lowest setting possible on the hob. Cook for 40 minutes to an hour or until

The time needed depends on the age and size of the pheasants. It is best to test early, to ensure the flesh remains as succulent as possible and to prevent over-cooking.

Meanwhile make the crumble. In a bowl mix together the flour, porridge oats, almonds, orange zest and some salt and pepper. Add the butter, chopped into small pieces and rub it in, as if you were making pastry, until you reach the crumb stage. Keep until needed.

Take the cooked pheasants from the pan and leave to cool. Mix the cornflour with 3 tablespoons of the juices, pour it back into the pan then bring the sauce to the boil and stir until thickened. Add redcurrant jelly to taste and check the seasoning.
Bone the pheasants and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces. Stir the meat into the sauce then transfer everything to a clean casserole or large gratin dish. Leave until cold then sprinkle the crumble over the top.

Bake as below, or to make and freeze ahead, cover with foil or wrap in a double layer of clingfilm. Defrost in a cool room for 10-12 hours, or in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

2, 3 and 4-Oven Aga 
Place on a grid shelf on the floor of the roasting oven with a cold plain shelf on the second set of runners above.

Conventional oven 
Bake in the centre of a pre-heated oven set at 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4.

Bake for 30-40 minutes or until everything is piping hot and the crumble is crisp and golden. Once cooked, the casserole can then be held in the simmering oven or a conventional oven at its lowest setting for up to an hour.

 

 
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Agalinks is an online magazine featuring recipes, cooking tips and interiors advice. Agalinks is part of the Aga Foodservice Group of companies and is a sister company to Aga. If you're looking for the main Aga products site, please click here
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