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Cookery Doctor - Richard Maggs

Pochard Duck

Question

Richard I have been given eight pochard (duck). How do you suggest I cook them? Richard

Answer

Dear Richard

POCHARD DUCK

Pochard duck (Aythya ferina) is a species of diving duck which are quite small and make for very good eating. Allow one per person. I think they are best roasted fairly plainly, as below, and served with various interesting accompaniments. All eight should just fit in the large Aga roasting tin, and would make a delicious dinner party main course. Perhaps do a dummy run with two first and then have a meal for six, a number I find ideal for entertaining. Sage and onion stuffing and apple sauce (recipes below) are the classic British presentation, and obviously orange, black cherry and blackcurrant sauces can also ring the changes. Do try and keep the fruit sauces reasonably tart as then they set of the rich duck flesh beautifully. By all means give them a small slug of Grand Marnier/Cointreau/Curagao, Crème de Cerise or Crème de Cassis respectively.

Wipe the outside of the duck and check that the interior is clean, if in doubt, rinse well. Prick the skin with a table fork and place the birds on the grill rack in the roasting tin. Hang on the lowest set of runners in the Roasting Oven and cook for about 20-25 minutes, until starting to brown. Transfer to the Simmering Oven to finish cooking for 20minutes. Test the thickest parts of the legs to check for doneness. Transfer to a warmed platter and leave to rest in a warm place for at least 15 minutes before serving whole. Use the fat and juices that remain in the tin to make a simple gravy, you may need to pour off excess fat first - this makes great roast or château potatoes. Make a light roux with some flour and once cooked (2-3 minutes), stir in some hot chicken (or duck*) stock. Add a good spoonful of redcurrant jelly, and adjust the seasoning to taste. If you find the flavours too strong, the addition of a little double cream will soften things. Ducks are best roasted unstuffed, so make some sage and onion to cook while the birds are roasting. This is the excellent recipe from The Aga Book:

SAGE AND ONION STUFFING

1lb (450g) onions, roughly chopped
3/4 pint (300ml) water
3 oz (75g) butter
1 level teaspoon dried sage
8 oz (225g) fresh white breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper

A dish of stuffing re-heats surprisingly well. Do so on the grid shelf near the top of the Roasting Oven for about 10 minutes.

Place the onions and water in a pan and bring to the boil, transfer to the Simmering Plate and simmer for about 15 minutes, then drain well. Stir in the remaining ingredients and mix well. Use as a stuffing for goose or pork.

2, 3 and 4 oven Aga Cookers: Cook in the Roasting Oven: Turn into a well buttered dish, dot with a little more butter then cook in the Roasting Oven with the joint or bird for about 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown and crisp. Keep warm on the floor of the Simmering Oven until required.

*When you have finished removing all the delicious meat from the birds, it really is worth making a simple stock with the carcasses. Just keep adding them to a bag in your freezer and when you have a good quantity go to the bother of making a batch. Freeze in plastic boxes or old 1 pt yoghurt pots. Most people are happy to mix bird carcasses up and end up with a duck/pheasant/grouse or whatever stock that makes all the difference in future recipes for whole birds of this genre.


THE COOKERY DOCTOR`S EASY APPLE SAUCE

This method completely obviates the hassle of having to peel any apples. Yes really. Using the Simmering Oven it is quick to prepare and requires very little effort. I make several batches during the autumn as it freezes so well.

At this time of year windfalls are starting to appear which are fine. Wash, dry but don`t peel or core the cooking apples. Roughly chop each into eight. Place in a large Aga saucepan, add 4 tablespoons of water, and bring to the boil on the Boiling Plate. As soon as it has come to the boil, cover and move to the Simmering Plate for three minutes. Transfer to the Simmering Oven for 30 minutes. Cool, pass through a nylon sieve which will leave behind all the skin, stalks and core. Add sugar to taste while still warm and a knob of butter, if liked. Do not attempt to strain or decant into freezable portions until cooled: apple purée can be extremely hot.


Finally, ducks can also be casseroled successfully, follow a dedicated recipe or adapt a chicken one. It is generally best to joint the bird into four. As a rule of thumb, once heated thoroughly elsewhere on the cooker, allow 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 hours in the Simmering Oven.


Best wishes


Richard Maggs
THE AGA COOKERY DOCTOR

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