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Cookery Doctor - Richard Maggs

Sweet Peppers

Question

Richard I have recently discovered the taste for red and green peppers but have no idea how to cook them. Your advice would be appeciated. Kay

Answer

Dear Kay

SWEET PEPPERS

Sweet peppers are the mild-tasting hollow fruits of the Capsicum annuum plant. Also commonly known as bell peppers, especially in the States, their colour can range from pale to dark green, early in their growth development, through to yellow, orange and also the most popular red. They eventually turn purple, brown and even black, depending on the period of maturity. Curiously some varieties finally return to a extremely dark green hue after this rainbow of shades as they grow. Although most specimens that are available in market are solid in colour, variegated varieties also exist. Generally speaking, however, the rule is that the longer they are allowed to mature, the greater the sugar content, with consequently sweeter results. Green peppers are therefore typically picked when immature, yellow or orange then they are a little older, red when fully ripe.

I am not personally a huge fan of green peppers (I have the constitution of the proverbial ox, but they always seem rather indigestible raw when I chew them in friends` salads). However, I do agree that they are an absolute must when making a chilli - the slow cooking transforms them wonderfully - and many purists maintain they are essential in an authentic Goulash; they were conspicuously absent, however, from the ones I enjoyed when I travelled through Hungary in my youth.

When selecting sweet peppers, look for firm and shiny specimens, with an even colour. They keep well in the refrigerator for up to a week, preferably in the salad compartment or a loosely closed plastic bag.

As well as being a useful raw addition to salads, giving a welcome crunch, they can also be cooked and used as a container: the top is removed as are the seeds, and then a savoury filling is added, the tops returned and the whole assemblies baked in a moderate oven until tender. The trend these days however is increasingly to grill and roast them and then to use them in this form as components in various dishes.

If you grill them, the following tip from The Little Book of Aga Tips 2 is an easy way to brown and remove the skins:

Pepper skins can be blistered at the very top of the Roasting Oven, or skin-side down in the Aga toaster on the Boiling Plate, before being left to sweat and cool in a plastic bag. Slip off the blackened skins over a plate to catch any juices.

Cut in half lengthways, these make a good ingredient as a cold mezze starter. Stuff with your favourite filling, e.g. roasted tomatoes, a cream-style cheese such as Boursin, perhaps hummus or tapenade, maybe some marinated mushrooms or artichoke hearts, then drizzle over a little virgin olive oil and some seasoning. Refrigerate for several hours and then bring back to room temperature for an hour or so before serving with lots of fresh crusty bread.

Peppers roast extremely well with other Mediterranean vegetables: toss with aubergines, courgettes, onion and garlic and a robust herb, such as Rosemary, with a generous glug of olive oil and some salt and pepper. Roast in a really hot oven, such as in the middle of the Aga Roasting Oven, until all are tender, with the edges of some of the pieces just starting to brown. The flavours will concentrate wonderfully. Optionally season with a very little balsamic vinegar before serving.

Happy cooking!

Best Wishes

Richard Maggs
THE AGA COOKERY DOCTOR

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