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Crystallised Lemon
Answer
Candied, crystallised and glacé fruits and candied peels can be made at home, with very good results. The process isn't difficult, but it is somewhat time-consuming, so if you want to do this, I would suggest you make a decent batch to justify the time. Each part of the process is relatively simple and short, it is just that it goes on for a number of days. Here is a modern, somewhat shorter version that gives very respectable results in the shortest possible time.
Candied fruit is the general term for fruits that are permeated with a high proportion of sugar and preserved dry, retaining their original colour and shape. Crystallised fruit is candied fruit which has then been finished by rolling in caster or fine granulated sugar, giving a rougher sugared finish. Glacé fruit is a further sub-category of candied fruit which have been dipped in a very heavy syrup and left to dry, giving a smooth, glossy covering. Whilst many whole fruits can be given any of these three treatments - apricots, cherries, crab apples, figs, greengages, peaches, pears, pineapples and plums work the best - whole lemons cannot be successfully given this treatment as they are too large. If cut into slices the exposed flesh disintegrates during processing, so making your own candied peel is the best option, and pieces of this used while still quite soft work beautifully as a garnish on top of a lemon cake, or classically where it is called for to top a Madeira cake. If you have only ever seen or eaten commercially mass-produced candied peel, what you will make will be a revelation. The same technique may be used for oranges, limes and grapefruits, but they are always best made separately as otherwise the distinct flavours become muddled during processing. With grapefruit only, it is important to give this bitter peel an extra initial boiling for ten minutes in water just to cover, to which a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda is added. Leave to soak for a further ten minutes and then rinse and proceed as below. This neutralises some of the bitterness and also has a softening effect on the otherwise recalcitrant grapefruit peel.
Unwaxed organic lemons
2 oz (55g) caster sugar for each lemon or lime
3 oz (85g) caster sugar for each orange or grapefruit
Water
Wash the fruit thoroughly and then quarter the fruit and remove the pulp, this can be used to make a simple hot tisane, sweetened with a little honey. Place the peel in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and then simmer gently until it is tender. On a low setting on top of the cooker this will take 1½ - 2 hours, topping up with extra boiling water as necessary during cooking. With an Aga, after an initial five minutes' on the Simmering Plate, cover and transfer to the Simmering Oven for 2½ hours.
Once tender, remove the peel to a place using a slotted spoon, and add the sugar. Stir to dissolve over a low heat and, when every grain has disappeared, add the peel and any liquid that has drained onto the plate. Return to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Leave to cool in a cool place and then cover with a clean tea towel and leave for 24 hours. Bring back to a slow boil and simmer gently on the top of the cooker for five minutes and repeat the cooling as before. After another 24 hours, repeat and this time simmer slowly until the peel absorbs all of the syrup. It will need watching carefully, and a little stirring with a wooden spoon in the final stages. Remove and place on a wire cooling rack set over a tray to drain and dry out for 24 hours. The following day, replace the drip tray with a clean on and then leave the assembly on a chef's pad on the closed Aga Simmering Plate lid overnight for several nights, until dried and ready to store. Alternatively, use a warm place such as an airing cupboard or low down in an oven at its coolest setting for several hours, checking every hour. Drying rather than any further cooking is what is required to complete the process.
To use and crystallised and glacé finishes
For use to top cake, arrest the final drying process while the peel is still pliable and store in polythene bags or boxes in a cool place or in your refrigerator. If you want an authentic crystallised finish, dip each piece of peel quickly into boiling water using a fork, and then shake off excess water and roll in caster or fine granulated sugar and set to dry. For a glacé finish, make some fresh heavy syrup: dissolve 1 lb (450g) caster sugar in ¼ pint (150ml) water over a low heat. When completely dissolved, bring to the boil and boil hard for 1½ minutes. Before dipping in the syrup, dip as above in boiling water and shake. Pour a little of the syrup into a pre-heated shallow oiled basin and then dip pieces of peel into it to coat and then transfer to a wire rack. Eventually the syrup will become cloudy and a fresh amount should be poured into a new pre-heated oiled shallow basin. While you are working, keep the syrup hot over a low heat and cover with a lid to prevent the syrup thickening due to evaporation. Leave the glacé fruits to dry over a few nights as described above before packing layered in boxes lined with baking parchment
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