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Cookery Doctor - Richard Maggs

Red Tomato Relish and Onion Marmalade

Question

Can you suggest recipes for red tomato relish and an onion marmalade or confit?

Answer

Here are two recipes for you to try. You can easily double up the ingredients, but making a larger batch than that is not recommended, as the extra stirring causes the texture to break down too much, simply make two batches one after the other, there is no need to wash the pan in between.

Note: For the first recipe, Imperial and metric quantities here are not direct equivalents, only one set of measurements should be used; the ratio of vegetables and fruit to vinegar to sugar will then be correct.

Aga Cookery Doctor's Easy Red Tomato Relish

When you reach for a preserving book for this kind of recipe, all you can usually find is endless ones that irritatingly are designed for using up a glut of green tomatoes. That kind of recipe doesn't work well with ripe red tomatoes, as they don't require the same method or cooking time. Cooking for a short time ensures a really fresh flavour. It goes brilliantly with all kinds of cold meats and cheeses, and I also sometimes reach for it as an ingredient to zoosh up a tame sauce.

Makes about 5 lbs (2.25kg)

3 lb (1.5kg) red tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
2 lb (1kg) cooking apples, peeled and chopped
8 oz (225g) onions, chopped
1 oz (25g) pickling spice
1 oz (25g) dry English mustard
1 oz (25g) salt
10 fl oz (300ml) cider vinegar
12 oz (350g) light brown sugarPlace the freshly washed and dried jars in an Aga roasting tin lined with several folds of newspaper. Peel and roughly chop the tomatoes and apples and finely chop the onions. Place in a large heavy-based Aga preserving pan - preferably stainless steel, to prevent the acid reacting with the pan. Add about a quarter of the vinegar. Wrap the pickling spice in a muslin bag, add to the mixture held by string tied to the pan handle and place the pan on the Simmering Plate. Gradually heat up until the mixture begins to simmer gently, adding half a cup of water if necessary. Place the sugar in a half size roasting tin and place to warm though in the Simmering Oven.

2, 3 and 4 oven Aga: Transfer uncovered to the Simmering Oven and allow to cook slowly for 30 minutes. If necessary, remove the sugar and keep warm on the top of the cooker.

Conventional Cookers: Continue to simmer gently for 15-20 minutes.

Return the pan to the Simmering Plate, slake the mustard and salt in a cup with a little vinegar and stir in. Place the tray of jars in the Simmering Oven to heat through. Continue to simmer the mixture on the top of the cooker and watch carefully to determine when the ingredients have only just fully softened. Now add the sultanas, sugar and remaining vinegar. Continue to simmer, stirring all the time, until the relish has thickened. If you prefer, cook for longer until thick and smooth. Pack into the warm jars, cover and allow to cool. Label and store in a cool, dark place. It needs a good couple of months to mature, so will be perfect for Christmas.

Quick Hot Chicken with Tomato Relish

Place some chicken breasts, with or without skin, on a grill rack in the high position in an Aga roasting tin lined with a pre-cut piece of Bake-O-Glide. Slide onto the top set of runners in the Roasting Oven for 8 minutes. Spoon some relish over each piece of chicken and then return to the oven until cooked, about another 7-10 minutes, depending on size. Transfer to a warmed plate to allow to rest in the warm and then add a little wine or apple juice to the sauce that will have fallen through into the tin and started to caramelise, and place on the floor of the oven and cook until thickened. Taste and adjust the seasoning and then offer with the chicken.

Aga Cookery Doctor's Easy Onion Marmalade
Here is my basic recipe for onion marmalade. When made at home, it is not possible to make and enjoy the long life keeping properties in the jars of the bought types, but is really a fresh relish or confit, great for serving with various savoury foods. If you prefer, it does freeze well, so there is always that option. Once defrosted, store in the refrigerator for up to a week - I find it never lasts that long anyway. My family have lately had a retro revival in cooking baked or deep-fried soft cheeses as a hot starter. They are delicious served with such a tracklement as this. The same recipe can be modified to use a tangy fruit base: plum, gooseberry and quince work well each in their own way to try later in the year. If not freezing, once made, store for a week or two covered in the refrigerator.

Makes about 5 small jars

1 fl oz (30ml) olive oil
4 medium onions, roughly chopped
- I like red onions best for this
3 oz (85g) Demerara sugar
2½ fl oz (75ml) cheapish balsamic vinegar
A wineglassful of light red wine
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a heavy pan and gently sauté the onions on a very low heat for about 20 minutes. On an Aga start for a few minutes on the Simmering Plate and then transfer uncovered to finish off in the Simmering Oven for 30 minutes. Over a high heat add the vinegar, wine, seasoning and sugar. Allow the liquid to reduce by about half then again give a spell on a very low heat stirring continuously this time until the mixture reaches a jam-like consistency.

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