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Cookery Doctor - Richard Maggs

Fillet of Beef

Question

Dear Richard Sorry to be a pain, but perhaps you can help. I am an experienced Aga (2 oven) user for the past 12 years. I intend to roast a 4 lb whole fillet of beef - never done it before. I can`t find anywhere how long I should cook it for - and as its not the cheapest cut I don`t want to mess up and spoil it. All I can find is reference to solid fuel cookers where it says get the oven to 500 deg F and cook for 45 mins irrespective of weight. I would be grateful if you could help. Thanks Barrie Viles

Answer

Dear Barrie

ROASTING BEEF FILLET

You are right to want to get it right. A good piece of fillet is not cheap and it would be terrible to spoil such a treat. I take it you have a good butcher.

Fillet is one cut of beef which is best only ever fast roasted, and the Aga Roasting Oven is perfect for this.
Take the meat from the refrigerator an hour before you cook it so that it starts cooking from room temperature. Brush with a little oil and season with freshly ground black pepper and just a little salt. Place in the Aga roasting tin on a grill rack if you prefer.

Hang on the lowest set of runners in the Roasting Oven. Because a thick piece of meat will obviously take longer per lb than a long thin piece, an arbitrary "so many mins per lb (450g)" can be a bit misleading in the case of fillet, although as you have found, plenty of books quote these. Last time I roasted a fillet it was a thick end, just a bit smaller than yours (about 3 3/4 lb) and it took 35 minutes for a medium rare (saignant) centre. So for 4 lb I would aim for 40 minutes, less if longer and thinner. I would certainly test when 70-80% through the expected time planned.

Chefs are trained to test for doneness by pressing the cooked meat gently with a clean thumb, the more the meat is cooked, the tighter the fibres become. Alternatively I would suggest you invest in a cheap meat thermometer (under £5) or if you are flash (and flush!) a digital probe (from £35). The press-test is a great skill to acquire and is easier to learn than you might suppose. Great for posing at BBQs next summer...

For rare/blue (bleu) press-test: soft. The core temperature should be 45-47 degrees C. The meat juice will be dark red.

For medium rare (saignant) press-test: soft yet springy. The core temperature should be 50-52 degrees C. The meat juice will be light red.

For medium (à point) press-test: firm and springy. The core temperature should be 60 degrees C. The meat juice will be just pink, almost clear.

For well done (bien cuit) press-test: firm. The core temperature should be 70-85 degrees C. The meat juice will be clear.

With all top quality cuts the rule is always, "sear it quick and rest it slow". Using a high temperature cooks the delicate flesh and then the all-important thorough resting allows the meat to relax. Cover the meat with foil and leave in a warm place for at least 10 minutes. On a 4 oven Aga you can use the warming plate, on a 2 or 3 oven model park the dish somewhere on the top plate. Because you have used the grill rack, the meat won`t lie in its own juice. This can be added to any sauce, if you are making one. Provided the meat is cooked as above and properly rested and warm throughout, the full flavour can be appreciated; it doesn`t need to be sizzling. Really hot plates from the Simmering or Warming oven will ensure that everything keeps hot. Finally, steer clear of knives with serrated edges: these dreadful things encourage your guests to tear at the meat which gives a false impression of toughness. If necessary treat yourself to some knives with razor sharp plain blades.

If you are serving Béarnaise Sauce with the fillet (or Hollandaise with any green vegetables) these will keep warm once made without splitting if the pan is placed on the Aga top plate.

I hope you enjoy your fillet as much as I have in thinking about it typing this!

Best wishes
Richard Maggs
THE AGA COOKERY DOCTOR

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