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Napa Lettuce (Chinese Cabbage)
Answer
Dear CJ
NAPA LETTUCE (CHINESE CABBAGE)
Napa cabbage is one of the many terms to describe what is most commonly called Chinese Cabbage. This variety, Brassica pekinensis, is called variously, "hakuisai", "celery cabbage", "wong bok" and "Peking cabbage", amongst others. Another related Brassica that has become popular in recent years is Bok Choi, also called "Chinese white cabbage" or "white mustard cabbage", indeed the whole family is sometimes bundles up in the foodie slang of "mustard greens". There are in fact several slightly different varieties which are all sold under these names, but their main characteristics are of all possessing thickly crinkled, veined, pale leaves with celadon green tips. In contrast to the strong sulphurous flavour found in the outer leaves of the tight round heads of regular cabbage, these are thin, crisp and delicate and are available cheaply all year round. Select firm and tightly packed heads with crisp, fresh-looking leaves. They keep well for at least 3 days in the salad crisper in your refrigerator, longer in an Aga Refrigerator. Although they can be eaten raw, finely sliced in salads, they are better lightly cooked in a stir-fry, steamed, slow-braised or served as a gratin. Compared to the delights of regular cabbage, I don`t think they respond well to plain boiling.
Stir-fry
Cut the green leaves into strips and set on one side. Chop the thicker base of the vegetable into crisp slices, similar to preparing celery. Heat 2-3 tbsp of your favourite oil for stir frying in an Aga wok on the Simmering Plate (I favour groundnut oil with its high burning point) with a little sesame oil for a nutty flavour. While the oils are still quite cool, add a little thinly sliced ginger. When starting to curl, add two cloves of bashed but not fully crushed garlic. Stir around and then transfer to the Boiling Plate and strain out all the aromatics just before the garlic starts to turn brown, which will happen quickly. Add the thicker slices and stir fry until starting to soften. Now add a little Kikkoman soy sauce or a little oyster or black bean sauce, if preferred. Add the strips of leaf and 6 tbsp of water. Press down and cover with a lid or plate. As soon as steam is produced, transfer to the Simmering Plate and continue cooking with the lid half on for 2-3 minutes. Do not leave the lid fully on or the green leaves will turn an unattractive khaki colour.
Steam
Cut into evenly sized pieces and steam in a pan with a collapsible steamer over 1 inch (2.5cm) boiling water or use a bamboo or traditional tier steamer. Bring to the boil on the Boiling Plate and then continue to steam for 5-7 minutes, until tender: place the pan partially offset on the Boiling Plate or transfer to the Simmering Plate, depending on what else is cooking. Dress with a little Kikkoman soy sauce or toasted sesame oil, as liked.
Slow-braise
Place in a shallow gratin dish, approx. 2 inches (5cm) deep. Pour over some light vegetable or de-greased chicken stock to just cover. Bring to the boil on the Simmering Plate if using a cast iron dish, or place on a grid shelf on the floor of the Roasting Oven if using a ceramic dish, in this case, lightly cover with foil. When simmering, transfer to the Simmering Oven for 30-40 minutes, until tender.
Gratin
Cook as for the slow-braise. By the time they are cooked the vegetable should have absorbed almost all its cooking liquid or the remainder will have evaporated; drain off any excess. Sprinkle evenly with a well-flavoured cheese, mixed with some breadcrumbs, and place near the top of the Roasting Oven for 5-8 minutes until golden brown.
Best Wishes
Richard Maggs
THE AGA COOKERY DOCTOR
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Dear Richard, Please tell me how to 'cook' napa lettuce (cabbage) to use as a vegetable. Thanks for your time. CJ